Don't Succumb to Surf Complacency
I have heard the same statement, from friends and customers alike, seemingly on repeat recently—"ah man, the waves have been bad for so long, I can't even remember the last time I surfed."
My challenge to you: don't succumb to surf complacency.
As with any discipline, it's easy to slip out of the routine and difficult to regain momentum. Don't be the guy who hasn't paddled out in 2 months next time a decent swell rolls through town. If you wait for that day, it's going to be overcrowded and underwhelming.
Surf now. Surf today. Surf when it's bad.
I shouldn't really be telling you this, because I have some of my best sessions when "the surf sucks" but you deserve to know the truth. Sometimes when "the surf sucks" it doesn't suck at all.
Nathan Adams posted a photo of a super fun looking wave up in Santa Barbara County from yesterday.
He said "...surfed by myself... only one good wave every thirty minutes. The wave that came was pretty perfect though... worth the wait."
Look at that wave! That's a long-running wave. Want to know what else is cool about that wave?
That wave was going to break whether or not Nathan was there to catch it.
If a tree falls in the forest, no one hears it. But if a right-hand peeler runs uninterrupted down the entire beach, every warm-blooded surfer should take notice. That thing we seek is free and it's out there, but it might require looking somewhere slightly different, or even some-time slightly different.
My advice to you remains... don't succumb to surf complacency. Get out there.