Be a Wave-Riding Generalist
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In surfing, nine-tenths of the battle is selecting the proper equipment for the conditions at-hand.
- When the waves are small and clean, there is nothing like riding a good Log.
- When the waves are shoulder-high and rampy—and the surf lineup looks like a skatepark—there's nothing like riding a Fish or Secret Menu.
- When the waves get bigger and more critical, there's nothing like being on a board that gives you all of the confidence that you can catch waves early in their formation and have the speed and control to get to the shoulder whenever you need to.
- When it's Summer and the waves are hollow, there's nothing better than throwing on a pair of fins and swimming out for a body surf.
But mix up any of those days with ill-suited equipment and things get measurably less fun—and potentially dangerous.
- If you paddle out on a Log when it's overhead and barreling, you're at risk of hurting yourself or others.
- If you paddle out on a shortboard when the waves are 1.5 feet and crumbly, you're likely going to end up frustrated.
Do yourself a favor... to the very best of your ability, try to match your equipment to the conditions of the day. Maybe that means hauling two boards down to the beach. Or perhaps that means sitting on your towel and watching the surf for 15 minutes before suiting up and paddling out.
- What are other surfers in the water riding?
- Who seems to be getting the best waves?
- What do the conditions call for, and did you bring the proper equipment?
Become a wave-riding generalist and you'll be prepared to handle a wide range of surf conditions.
What's Next?