Photo: Hannah Reynolds
Surfing makes me feel connected. Especially where I’m located in Orange County; its a bit of a trek to get to a place where you can really experience the earth without the obstruction of telephone poles and concrete.
Surfing helps me clear away the distractions of day-to-day life & experience the thrill of harnessing nature for a few seconds. It’s not lost on me that waves travel thousands and thousands of miles to reach my local break; and then I need to be in the exact place (and on the right equipment) to harness this power for a few moments in an effort of expression and joy.
Surfing makes me feel connected to the earth, my friends who surf, and to myself. Surfing a wave clears the mind and helps me focus on one singular thing.
