The Law of Diminishing Returns (And How to Beat It)
The Law of Diminishing Returns is defined as such:
"a principle stating that profits or benefits gained from something will represent a proportionally smaller gain as more money or energy is invested in it." [Dictionary.com]
Meaning... the first wave you caught, your first barrel, your first proper noseride, etc... will carry more emotional value and "stoke" than your 500th.
Conventional wisdom, then, would say that in order to get the same level of satisfaction from surfing, you have to keep chasing bigger waves, longer noserides, and deeper barrels.
We, however, are not limited by "conventional wisdom".
My recommendation for out-smarting the Law of Diminishing Returns is to switch things up, vary your approach, don't get caught in the trap of becoming a one-trick specialist.
There is more than one way to ride a wave, and by varying your equipment and approach, you can sort of hack the linear graph of diminishing returns.
- When long boarding starts to become routine, switch things up and exclusively ride a fish for a while.
- When you've been riding the fish for a bit, and feel you're ready for another change, grab your mid-length and up-your wave count.
- Or, do like me, and dip into the clumsy torment of trying to master finless surfing. (I promise nothing will start you over at square one in your surfing quite like trying to stay low and ahead of the wide-point on a finless vessel.)
Whatever the "fresh look" is that you need to try, become a wave riding generalist. Do not get bogged down in the same routine. Do not allow the Law of Diminishing Returns to attempt to steal your joy.
We'll be here to encourage you along your journey... because our goal is for you to become a life-long, well-rounded surfer...