Don't Surf Like Dave...
... surf like Drew.
Burn this image into your mind, and try to emulate this approach the next time you paddle out.
Drew's is low, centered, and in the pocket of the wave—three things that would benefit your surfing if you did them more often.
Your author, on the other hand, frequently falls into the same trap that many surfers do: stiff-leg syndrome.
Don't stand tall when you should get small.
It's hard to be agile when your knees are locked straight, and for that reason the Tin Man would make an awful surfer.
The reason I'm being a little dramatic about making my point is because I don't get the feeling that most surfers pay much attention to how high, or more importantly low, their center of gravity is while they are up and riding.
The next time you surf, bend your knees and drop your hips down closer to the wave. Keep this image of Drew burned into your mind and aim to recreate it as often as possible—it will only do good things for your surfing.