The Best All-Around Surfer in the Lineup is...
The best all-around surfer in the lineup is... the one who can do the following 3 things:
- Anticipate what the next wave is going to do (and respond accordingly)
- Surf with speed and precision
- Ride a wide variety of equipment (small boards, mid-lengths, longboards)
If you can do those three things, you will consistently be among the most well-equipped surfers in the water.
Our aim is to provide the gear and guidance to accomplish all three.
To start, become a student of your home break. Do you know what swell direction, wind direction and tide create the right blend of conditions for your spot to shine?
My Trick for Getting Great Waves:
I have been surfing the same spot consistently for many years, and I know where most of the crowd likes to sit when it gets good. I also know that my favorite waves (read: the best waves) are the ones that swing a little wide, and are usually out of reach for the main pack to get to while they are busy jockeying for the other takeoff spot.
So I know I want to wait for the sets that swing a little wide from the pack.
In an effort not to tip my hand, I don't go sit out at my favorite takeoff spot. (I've found that it attracts others to join me) so when the waves are good, I sit deeper and inside from where I actually know the waves will break. When I see that first indicator set start to approach, I book it out to meet the first or second wave of the set, knowing most others are going to be caught unprepared for where the. wave is going to be.
That little trick, and knowing the nuances of my spot, have resulted in some of the longest and best rides of my very humble surfing career. (can I call it a career?)
You are on your path to becoming the best all-around surfer in the lineup at your home break. Don't forget to study your spot and find ways of anticipating what the next wave is going to do, in an effort to get a jump on harnessing that wave for a ride down the beach.
Photo: Alex Swanson