Avoid the Crowds: Find Your Own Secret Spot
Every surfer dreams of having a secret place to surf; and once you find it, it becomes your mission to safeguard its locale and the secrets of when it breaks.
This summer in Orange County, the crowds have been dense—as busy as I can remember in my 20 year surfing career. After a few days of floundering in the congested lineup, I was more frustrated coming out of the water than going in. So I have set out to rediscover some secret spots—even in the heart of surf city.
In my younger years, I was dedicated to finding THE secret spots in Orange County. And although you may not find the next Lowers in your backyard, I can promise you, with enough dedication - you can still find good waves to yourself.
My journey to find uncharted surf started on a 4-6 foot forecasted day, where my local reef break was going off! But it was so crowded, I knew at best I would be picking up scraps. So I went to places where I have seen hints of whitewater but didn’t know if there would be surf.
After sneaking through the CEO of a major surf brand’s backyard and walking over a bluff, a heaving right barrel opened up beyond the headland. And since it is home to a seal colony and there typically doesn’t have much surf, I paddled out.
Turquoise wave after wave opened up for a perfect right hand tube. It was an amateur surf discoverer’s dream.
Since then, I have gone on to find better reef breaks and corners that have been logged on certain swell directions and tides. These discoveries have opened up a whole new experience of exploration and empty waves—in my own zip cod; and I want to help you find your own slice of surf paradise close to home.
Here are a few cheat codes in finding a secret spot of your own:
1. Know your local coastline.
Whether you live in a place full of beach break or a rocky coast, keep an eye on hidden sandbars or random coves or a rock that could break. Some of my favorite surfs have been at places because I constantly check the surf and the wave happened to be breaking on a certain swell angle and tide.
2. Don’t get caught in the normalcy of surfing where everyone else is.
It is easy to get caught in the hype of surfing where the “waves are really good”. But guess what? Everyone else is also surfing there. Go beyond your comfort zone and take a little risk on surfing somewhere else. Even if it is not as good, you will have had a more memorable experience in trying to find your OWN secret wave.
3. Have an open mind on your equipment
Let’s say the waves are sizeable at a certain place on a forecasted swell. Don’t be afraid to put the shortboard down or the mid length away. Grab the longboard! The cove down the way has perfect peelers!
If you are looking for more leaks into my personal California Secret Spots or want more tips and tricks - join our Early and Often Surf Club! Here we share valuable information and are building a larger surfing community - online and with in person meet ups!
We hope to see you online and in the lineup.
