One thing really good surfers can do that novice and intermediate surfers struggle with?
Reading waves well.
Before we surf, we stand on the beach watching the lineup, deciding where we want to paddle out, trying to figure out where the best peak is, whether the tide is helping or hurting, and if the crowd looks manageable.
But then after we surf, we tend to put our heads down and walk straight back to the car.
That’s the missed opportunity.
Some of the best wave-reading happens immediately after a surf because you just experienced the lineup firsthand.
How many times have you gotten out of the water, looked back at the ocean, and suddenly realized where the best waves were actually breaking? Or thought: “It looks better from the beach than it did from the water.”
Before surfing, everything is theoretical. After you get out of the water, you have way more context for the felt experience compared to how it looks from the beach.
So next time you get out of the water, spend five minutes on the sand and ask yourself a few questions:
- Where were the best waves breaking?
- Was I sitting in the best spot?
- Who was getting the best waves today?
- What were they doing differently?
- Did I bring the right board?
- If I paddled back out right now, where would I sit?
Over time, patterns start to emerge.
You begin to notice where the closeouts happen, where the best sections are, and how some surfers consistently put themselves in better positions than others.
Over time your ability to anticipate what the waves are going to do will start improve too.
And improving your ability to read the conditions and will help you react to what's happening. That is an unlock that makes great surfers seem like they are always a step ahead. Pair that with super efficient paddling, and you'll be better prepared than 90% of the surfers in the lineup.
What's Next?
