With the Super El Niño brewing in the Pacific, it felt appropriate to pause and talk about what to ride when the waves get bigger.
The primary rule of thumb is: you want to ride something that you can confidently paddle into waves early, but small enough to feel like you have control of the board when you're up and riding.
It sounds simple enough.
The physics is: you must be able to paddle at the same speed as the wave you wish to catch, and bigger waves move faster through the water than smaller waves do. That's why you see big wave surfers paddling out on 11 foot rhino chasers during the Mavericks competition.
But your local break likely does not look like Mavericks, even on its biggest days. Mavericks breaks in one takeoff spot and there's a giant channel off to the side where you can enter the surf zone via boat. Most surf breaks are much more nuanced than that.
A long, rolling overhead point break and a steep, hollow overhead beach break are very different propositions. This is probably the most useful piece of information missing from the original.
You need something that you can catch waves with confidence AND something that you have control of under your feet when you're riding the wave.
Side note: I cannot over state the importance of confidence. When the conditions get bigger, decision making becomes critical, and being decisive and confident can be the difference between the wave of the day and a free fall down the face.
Our legal team would like me to remind you that the ocean is a dangerous and powerful place and you should never paddle out in conditions that exceed your skill and comfort level. These surf tips are only for entertainment.
Those notes aside, we're back to the equipment selection.
Here are a few boards for your consideration for bigger-than-normal waves.
1. Andy's Arrow
This is a board we cooked up specifically for Andy Nieblas when the waves get juicier. We realized years ago that our marquee team rider was riding an old garage sale board every times the swell picked up, so we did the only logical thing and offered to build him a new model that borrowed notes from his favorite step-up. The result is this wide-point forward, 70's inspired, pin tail.
If you're accustomed to riding longer boards and want something that can handle more size without giving up the glide and early entry you're used to, Andy's Arrow is where I'd start.
2. The New BBF
If the recipe for success is paddling confidence and control, don't sleep on the recently redesigned Big Bueno Fish. This swallow-tailed quad is ideal between 6'3" and 6'10", which is plenty of length for a step up for many surfers, and the pulled in quad tail offers the precision and control you seek when you're screaming down the line.
I'd look at the BBF for someone who wants more paddling power than their everyday shortboard, but still likes the speed and feel of a fish.
3. The Survey
Potentially an unexpected answer, but a proven one. This round-tailed thruster gives you a big more foam under your chest than a typical shortboard would, and pairs it with a round tail which is great for rail-to-rail control. Drew Meseck took a Survey to Indo several years ago and absolutely scored. This would be a great board for fitting in the pocket.
For a surfer who's comfortable catching steeper waves and wants something compact and responsive under their feet, the Survey is worth considering.
These suggestions are based on our own experiences, as well as feedback from team riders, customers, and friends.
Ultimately, the right board depends on the waves you're surfing, the boards you're accustomed to riding, and your own comfort level.
This winter, as you go to reach for your board, grab the one that gives you the confidence to catch waves early and get down the line with ease.
Be safe, have fun.
