Whenever I watch people surf for an extended period, I notice the same thing over and over: people paddling for waves—and not catching them. Not once or twice. Consistently.
Sometimes it’s paddling effort. But more often, they’re not quite where the wave is going to break.
As much as we talk about boards that paddle well, it’s just as critical to learn how to read waves and go meet them at the spot.
Waves tend to break in patterns. The difference is often just a few feet—and a few seconds. If you see it early, you can move early.
Most missed waves aren’t about effort. They’re about starting in the wrong place. Too far inside, and it breaks on you. Too far outside, and it rolls under you. Too far on the shoulder, and you’re chasing it.
The surfers catching the most waves aren’t always paddling the hardest. They’re in the right spot—before the wave even gets there.
Instead of waiting for the wave to come to you, go meet it. Then, when it’s time to turn and go, do so with confidence.
Half the benefit of a board that paddles well is that it gives you the ability to get to the right spot—and the confidence to paddle hard when it’s time to go and get into the wave early.
Everything is easier when you catch waves early. You’ve got more time to get to your feet, more time to choose your line, and the wave does more of the work.
It’s easy to get lulled into a daze between sets, but the surfers getting the best waves are usually the ones actively seeking out the peak and putting themselves in position.
Don’t wait for the waves to come to you. Don’t miss the waves you paddle for.
Do your best to predict where the wave is going to break, and when it’s time to paddle, paddle like you mean it. Your wave count will improve dramatically.
