When I dream of perfect waves, I picture a chest-high left point break—just enough juice to ride a fish, but not so big that you wouldn’t consider swapping it for the log.
As much as I love the idea of those long, leg-burning lefts, that’s rarely (read: never) the reality when I actually paddle out.
Rather than complaining, the best we can do is pick the right board for the day and keep our attitude in check.
With the right mindset and the right equipment, even two-foot, junky beach break can be a blast. Fight back against the slow creep of cynicism—and make the most of whatever conditions you’ve got.
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