I surfed this morning and had the entire spot to myself.

The sun was shining and the water was frigid. There wasn't a breath of wind, and  I caught every wave I wanted.

Today was a Two Feet and Firing kind of day.

Mickey Munoz famously said, “there is no bad wave, just bad equipment and bad attitudes.”

I had little expectation for great waves, so I grabbed the biggest board I could find and hauled it down to the beach.  I had a splendid time and I'll probably go back and do it again tomorrow.