Conquerers of the Useless
Recently, I hosted a Q&A with Jeff Johnson after a showing of his film 180° South—which was part of our launch of his new signature board model the Beyond and Back Asymm.
If you haven't seen the film, add it to your must-see list. The movie chronicles an epic sailing journey to Patagonia, retracing the steps of Jeff’s heroes, Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins, founders of Patagonia and The North Face, respectively. The film culminates in a reflection on the profound natural beauty and wonder of Patagonia, which has inspired countless climbing, surfing, and backpacking adventures around the world. Its an awe-inspiring journey into some of the most striking landscapes on earth.
The subtitle of the film 180° South is "Conquerors of the Useless," which struck me as curious, so naturally I asked Jeff about it.
Jeff explained that the phrase, borrowed from French climber Lionel Terray via Yvon Chouinard, captures the essence of activities like surfing and climbing. These pursuits are undertaken purely for the joy of the experience itself, rather than for any tangible outcome. After a wave has been ridden and the water has retreated back into the ocean, all that remains is the fleeting moment of exhilaration and the memory of it.
Many of our favorite hobbies and recreational pursuits have an outcome. You go lobster diving in hopes of plucking some dinner off the ocean floor. You smoke a brisket all day to share with your neighbors. You take the kids huckleberry picking to bring home purple fingers and a gallon of wild berries.
Surfing, however, is pure play.
And in a world where it can feel as though every waking moment needs to be productive—or at least every waking moment has some list of needs beckoning—"play" plays an important role.
Play allows us to live fully present in the moment, unaware of the passing of time. Play is permission to do something for the pure enjoyment of the activity. Play anchor us into the real, so we can return to the manufactured world better prepared to face its demands and challenges.
Play can be as simple as throwing a ball or as physically and mentally challenging as rock climbing or surfing. Whatever form it takes, be sure to incorporate play into your regular rhythm. (Just preferably not golf).
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