When I dream of perfect waves, I picture a chest-high left point break—just enough juice to ride a fish, but not so big that you wouldn’t consider swapping it for the log.
As much as I love the idea of those long, leg-burning lefts, that’s rarely (read: never) the reality when I actually paddle out.
Rather than complaining, the best we can do is pick the right board for the day and keep our attitude in check.
This has become a core principle of Almond: stop waiting for the conditions to be perfect, and get out and enjoy what’s in front of you right now.
With the right mindset and the right equipment, even two-foot, junky beach break can be a blast. And if you can have fun on everyday waves, you’re far better prepared when the surf is genuinely good.
As surf icon Mickey Muñoz once put it, “There are no bad waves, only a poor choice of equipment and a lousy attitude.”
In surfing—and in life—it’s easy to fall into the trap of waiting for ideal conditions. More often than not, it’s better to make the most of what you’ve got.
We’ll see you out there.
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