Photo: Hannah Reynolds

Surfing makes me feel connected.  Especially where I’m located in Orange County; its a bit of a trek to get to a place where you can really experience the earth without the obstruction of telephone poles and concrete.

Surfing helps me clear away the distractions of day-to-day life & experience the thrill of harnessing nature for a few seconds.  It’s not lost on me that waves travel thousands and thousands of miles to reach my local break; and then I need to be in the exact place (and on the right equipment) to harness this power for a few moments in an effort of expression and joy.