The Reason Most Surfers Quit

The reason most surfers quit early on in their surf journey, is because they never catch enough waves to really feel like they are making progress.

If you don't catch enough waves, you never build the confidence to stick with it.

Wave-count is always a critical factor in overall surf-enjoyment, but it's especially crucial in the early formative stages.  

When you are early in your surfing journey, not only are you trying to master the art of wave riding, but you are also getting familiar with the ever-moving, ever-changing surf lineup, learning to read and predict what waves are doing, and building the muscle groups necessary to paddle your surf craft with speed and efficiency. 

When you are learning to surf, you should prioritize catching your first 100 waves. That's a good threshold for where things will start to 'click' a bit.

I've shared this story before, but many years ago a young kid named Jack started hanging around the shop who was eager to get better at surfing. He got a longboard and surfed Blackies every day.  And I mean EVERY day.

Good days, bad days, cold days, windy days.  Jack was out there.

And to nobody's surprise Jack not only got competent at surfing, he very quickly became a better surfer than we were.  He progressed so quickly because he was consistent about getting in the water. The number of waves he got under his belt was incredibly high, even in a relatively short period of time.

Consistency + wave count = progress.

So, how do you catch more waves?

Surf regularly, catch waves often, and make sure you have the right equipment to give you the best chance of success.

In our opinion, every surfer should have an 8'0 R-Series Joy in their garage—especially when they are early in their surfing career.  It's a great all-around board and it catches tons of waves. 

If you are serious about getting better at surfing get the right board and then go catch 100 waves on it.  You will be able to see & feel the progress you are making.