Keep Your Wave Count High at Any Age
A really great surf session requires a whole slew of variables to cooperate: Tide, wind, swell, crowds. And perhaps most importantly, your personal schedule.
When we first started building surfboards in the early 2000's, most of us were in our twenties. If the waves were good, we'd surf. If the waves were bad, we'd probably surf anyway.
These days, many of us have found ourselves in a different season of life.
We're pushing kids into waves. Coaching from the shoreline. Sneaking out for a quick surf when we can.
The desire to surf hasn't changed, but over the years the opportunities have.
And when opportunities become more limited, every wave starts to matter a little more.
That's why so many surfers (myself included) start looking for a little more foam (in the right places). Trying to stack the deck in their favor.
For many Surf Dads, the trusty 5’9” doesn't float quite the same way it used to. You know you'd probably benefit from a little more paddle power, but you want it on your own terms.
The good news is that surfboard design has never offered more options than it does right now. In the 90’s and 00’s, most surfers looking for more wave-catching ability had two choices: keep struggling on the shortboard or jump all the way to a longboard.
Today there are a lot more stops along the way. You don't have to choose between a performance shortboard and a 9'6" log anymore.
Option #1: Stay Short, Add Foam
This is where many surfers start.
You still want the feeling of a shorter board under your feet, but you're willing to be honest about the fact that catching more waves sounds pretty appealing.
Over the last twenty years, surfboard design has gotten remarkably good at hiding volume.
Wider tails, thicker rails, fuller outlines, alternative fin setups—there are now plenty of ways to gain paddle power without dramatically changing the way you surf.
This category alone is enough to make surfing feel easier, more productive, and ultimately more fun.
Option #2: Ain't Afraid of a Little Length
At a certain point, adding foam without adding length starts to become a game of diminishing returns.
If your goal is maximizing wave count, a few extra inches can go a long way.
This is where a lot of surfers discover the sweet spot.
Enough length to paddle earlier and get into waves with less effort, but still short enough to fit comfortably in the pocket and remain fun to turn.
We've watched a lot of surfers reluctantly move into this category over the years, only to wonder why they waited so long.
Option #3: Longboards
Let's stop pretending longboards are some sort of consolation prize.
They've survived every trend in surfing for one simple reason:
They work.
If your goal is maximizing time on your feet, maximizing wave count, and maximizing the number of days each year that feel worth paddling out, a longboard remains one of the best tools ever created.
There is a reason so many lifelong surfers eventually end up with one in the garage.
The Real Goal
The goal isn't to ride a bigger board, the goal is to keep surfing and make the most of the opportunities you have.
Whenever possible, stack the deck in your favor.
